Sonoma-Loeb, Chardonnay Private Reserve, Sonoma County

Intensely aromatic and smokey, the Sonoma-Loeb, Chardonnay Private Reserve, Sonoma County has good fundamentals but is slightly off-key. Straw yellow with a green hue, it hints at a brighter acidity that it carries. Smokey and a bit oaky, the nose has undertones of ripe melon and apricot, followed by a rich attack, dense yellow fruits, a creamy mouth feel and a slight bitterness. The finish is long and rich. Is the wine over-oaked, or are the barrels over-toasted? Either way this rich grape juice is slightly marred by the barrel aging. Score 14/20.

Ramey, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, 2007

A delightful cool climate Chardonnay, the Ramey, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, 2007 is straw colored with green hues, setting the stage for the wine's good balance and lively acidity. According to their web site, the wine is "whole-cluster pressed, fermented in Burgundian barrels with native yeast and bottled without filtration" which results in intense aromas of citrus fruits and quince, with a delicate overtone of creme fraiche. The attack is lively, with bight acidity and a long and persistent finish. Great food wines with a real Burgundian acidity "kick". Score 16/20.

Stag's Leap, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2006

Deep purple with garnet hues, the color of the Stag's Leap, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2006 implies an older wine, hinting at premature aging. Intense and complex, the nose shows a heavy predominance of smokey aromas - due perhaps to the 100% new oak aging - followed by intense and ripe cherry and raspberry. The attack is very ripe, followed by red fruits, soft round tannins and good balance, though lacking slightly in freshness. Very long on the finish. Too young to drink, re-taste in 5 years. Score 16/20.

Gary Farrell, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2007

Crisp in a Burgundian style, the Gary Farrell, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2007is straw gold, with a green tinge, hinting at a fresh acidity. The nose is intense, displaying lime and mineral notes, followed by a fresh mineral attack and cool citrus flavors, with a round and velvety middle that speaks to its California roots. The freshness of the wine carries through to the finish, implying a delicate handling of the grapes, minimal skin contact, a quick and low temperature fermentation, and the unobtrusive use of oak. An excellent food wine. Score 15/20.

Rubicon Estate, CASK Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, 2005

The American oak, despite the use of larger 500 liter barrels, is evident on the Rubicon Estate CASK Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, 2005. This deep purple wine displays intense smokey oak and spice aromas emblematic of American oak, which almost overwhelm the intense cassis, blackberry and more subtle violet notes. The attack in concentrated and almost sweet, with a creamy mouth feel and rich cherry and chocolate notes. At 14.9% alcohol, the wine flirts dangerously with the 15%+ limit where the high concentration of alcohol kills the yeats cells and slows or stops the alcoholic fermentation, leaving residual sugar and making the wine sweet, but vulnerable to the eventual development or Brettanomyces Bruxellensis, or "Brett" with its typical horse stable aromas. The 2005 CASK is slightly over extracted, making it too young to drink now; re-taste in 5 years. Score 16/10.

Pahlmeyer, Napa Valley Chardonnay, 2006

The light gold and green tinged color of the Pahlmeyer, Napa Valley Chardonnay, 2006 does not hint at this wine's intensity and density. The nose reveals butter, brioche, apple and quince, and strong smokey oak aromas, while the attack is big and buttery, with a thick velvety mouth feel, ripe fruit, a soft and round mid-section, but disappointingly handicapped by a faint acidity, which throws this intensely fruity wine off keel. Could have been a contender for greatness, though through its sheer weight it held up heroically to the dual onslaught of wine foes soy sauce and wasabi. Score 16/20, drink now + 5 years.

The Forager, Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands, 2007

The Forager, Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands, 2007 could easily be mistaken for a red "village" Burgundy. Cherry red, with an intense and complexe nose of smoke, wood and spice, The Forager has a fresh attack, showing brigh acidity, followed by ripe fruits and a long, balanced finish. Is the quality due to the original of the grapes - 74% from the chilly Central Coast vineyard, or the traditional old world winemaking. Look forward to trying the Pey-Lucia "Frisquet", an upmarket version of The Forager. Score 15/20, drink now + 3 years.

Gary Ferrell, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, 2006

Perhaps it is the cold soaking, and short, slow, low tempterture fermenation, or maybe the use of 1/3 new oak barrels for aging, but the result in the Gary Ferrell, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, 2006 is a complexe and delicate wine. At first glance the four-year old wine looks prematurely aged, with its light red brick-bown color, which raises some concern for the aging potential of this wine. The aromas are subtle and complex, spicy with black cherry, smoke and earth. The attack is brisk,with good acidity, well restrained fruit, and continued freshness on the long finish. It's hard to find a California pinot that holds back on over extraction and excessive oak, bu this Sonoma wine tacks into a traditional burgundian headwind with style. Score 15/20, drink now.

Kelly Fleming, Sauvignon Blanc, Oakville, 2007

In a blind tasting I would have been stumped by the Kelly Fleming Sauvignon Blanc, Oakville 2007, as it borders on a Chardonnay; only the slightly bracing finish gives away the varietal. The color of straw with a green hue, the light nose shows pear and slightly vegetal notes. The attack is soft, developing into sweet fruit, then a slightly heavy roundness, with good acidity bordering on bitter, and a medium finish. The 25% to 50% new French oak distorts the varietal character - the wine succumbs to the common "oak" mistake of "more is better", it would have been much better aged strictly in steel. Score 13/20, drink now + 3 years.

Joan & Walt Flowers, Flowers Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, 2007

Light gold with a slight green tinge, the Flowers Sonoma coast Chardonnay 2007 has shy herbal and floral notes, slightly smokey, backed up by crisp pear and apple aromas. The attack is strong and heady (Alc 14%), with a roundness to the body, good intensity, and well balanced acidity. Long finish, a still refreshing despite the high alcohol level. Recommended by the Whole Foods wine manager as "Burgundian style", "one of my favorites, from the Sonoma coast which is a great Chardonnay producing area". Score 15/20, drink now + 3 years.